Sometimes it is also necessary to change the colour of a surface sealed with coloured wax, there are a variety of bleaches, household bleaches can also be used on wood, but it is best to buy a special bleach, which is offered in two components and causes a stronger reaction on the wood.
WHAT KIND OF WOOD TO BLEACH?
Two bleaching jobs: mahogany,oak,walnut,red cedar,eucalyptus,chestnut,yew,douglas fir.
.rubber gloves, goggles and protective clothing
Two synthetic flat brushes.
Two ceramic or glass vessels.
.acetic acid solution
.soft scrubbing brush
Sandpaper and dust mask.
These bleaches are usually offered in two bottles, usually marked A and B or 1 and 2, the first bottle contains a solution that first darkens the wood, then the bleaching process is started by adding the hydrogen peroxide solution.Be careful which bottle contains which solution and never mix them up! mixing the two substances can lead to violent reactions and even to an explosion.apply the same amount of the two solutions without soaking the wood too much.the resulting foam bleaches the wood through oxidation.
Bemtwo-component bleach you must use a neutralizing agent that stops the chemical reaction and ensures that the subsequent surface is not affected.traditionally a solution of water and 5 percent acetic acid and much clear water is used for rinsing.
1)If you work with bleach, please wear thick rubber gloves, goggles and protective clothing, work only in a well-ventilated room or outdoors and read the manufacturer's instructions carefully before starting.
2) You need two brushes with plastic bristles and two glass or ceramic containers for the two solutions, apply the first solution with the first brush until the wood is evenly covered, then leave the product to act as directed, usually about 30 minutes.
3) Apply the contents of the second container with the second brush, do not forget your protective clothing, the wood will now look darker, the reaction of the two solutions will now begin to bleach the wood, possibly creating foamy bubbles, and allow the agents to work for two to three hours until the desired lightening is achieved, normally.
4)At the end of the time recommended by the manufacturer, neutralize the bleaching solution. dilute 1 part acetic acid with 20 parts water and work the solution well into the wood with a brush.
5) Finally rinse the vinegar solution with plenty of clear water and dry the work piece with a cloth, then let it dry thoroughly but not directly on the heater, then it is ready for the next step, do not forget the dust mask when sanding.
TIPS AND TRICKS
To stop bleaching, rinse with clean water.
After moistening, large workpieces can move.
Reinforce the underside with a strip.
If foam forms on the surface, remove it with water and a brush.
HEALTH AND SAFETY
Since bleaching agents also react with metal (which is why they are also used to remove metal stains), you may only use glass or ceramic containers.
Wear gloves, goggles and protective clothing at work.
Only use bleach outdoors or in well-ventilated rooms.
Read the manufacturer's instructions carefully and observe the safety tips.
Have a large bucket of water and a sponge ready in case there should be a splash.
Wear a dust mask when sanding the bleached piece.
Store the chemicals in a dry, dark place, never in sunlight.
Keep chemicals away from children and never put them in food containers. They could be inadvertently eaten or drunk.
If bleach gets on the skin, wash it off immediately with plenty of water.
Wood can be dyed with either pigments or dyes; dyes are dissolved in a chemical liquid and penetrate the wood fiber, while pigments float in a carrier liquid and only lie on the surface of the wood fiber; pigments are often used to cover a defect or knot in the wood or to work up a polished surface; dyes are the dyes in stains that give the wood a different appearance.
.white paper or an old white plate to mix.
Indian ink brush.
A selection of pigments and dyes.
Alcohol and/or shellac.
DYE AND STAIN
Dyes become part of the wood fibre and are used to colour wood, but their transparency allows the grain to shine through, to emphasise the natural colour of the wood, which can mean to accentuate a warm wood with a red tone or to dampen a dominant red with a little green.It is normal for the legs or frames of a table to be made of a different type of wood than the top, but the original wood tones vary greatly, which can be corrected with colours, so take a close look at the wood to decide which colour fits best. In this case, "try over studying", test as many colours as possible on different surfaces and compare the results.with little practice, develop a feeling for colours and can later assess their effect on small wood residues before the colours are used in the large ones.do not try to colour a piece of wood in one go, proceed step by step and increase the proportion of dyes.try to imitate the fine differences in the grain.apply the colour on small surfaces with a brush, on larger ones with a cotton swab.Due to the honeycomb-like cell structure of the wood, light and colour are reflected differently, so you should adjust the colour from a certain angle if possible.a chair should be placed on the floor and a wall clock worked on at chest height.Most woods have a brown tone, from the beige of the oak to the brown-black of the ebony; many woods can be matched with Bismic brown (a reddish colour) and black spirit stain, using green, blue and yellow for tinting.
Unlike pickling, pigments are not transparent, i.e. they are opaque. the many pigments have impressive names, but for surface treatment you do not need more than eight pigments mixed with alcohol or shellac polish.The stained polish is best applied with a polishing bale or brush, pigments are very economical and should only be mixed in small quantities, add the powder with a putty knife, use an ink brush to apply pigments on incorrect positions, a steady hand is important.
TIPS AND TRICKS
Mix the pigments on a piece of paper if you need it fast.
Mix carefully and without haste.
Work in daylight.
Look closely at the colour of the wood and the grain.
Dye the workpiece when it's at the right height. A chair is on the floor, not on the workbench.
The most common mistake is to choose the color too dark. Work calmly and step by step. Don't try to get the perfect color in one go.
The workpiece must be thoroughly ground and cleaned, no traces of dust or grease must remain.