WHAT THEY NEED:

.veneer knife

.ruler

.syringe

White glue.

Suitable veneer.

.iron.

.paper

Sharp knife.

Rasp or file.

.100 sandpaper

.sanding block

Broken veneers are often found on drawer and table edges, especially where the blind veneer has come loose. Often it is better to remove an entire strip of veneer and replace it completely instead of putting many small patches, the veneer can also blow if air has got under it or if the glue was faulty, this error can be corrected by puncturing the blister.

If a veneer is too heavily damaged at one point, it must be repaired, i.e. a patch of suitable veneer must be used .it is important to choose a veneer that fits well in colour and grain and to cut the patch so that its grain pattern matches the rest of the veneer and the butt joint is not visible .if the workpiece has not been stained beforehand ,you must ensure that the patch used is slightly lighter at first ,since it will darken after the subsequent surface treatment.

 

FURNIERARTEN:

Usually you have to try out several veneer types until you find a piece that fits in grain and colour, but you should always use the same type of wood as possible, because different types of wood also change their colour differently.

Bird maple.

Plane tree.

.olive wood

Rio rosewood.

Walnut.

Ash.

Padouk.

 

PUTTING THE PATCH:

The most important tool for patch setting is a sharp knife: when cutting open the damaged area, follow the grain or cut obliquely to it, long lines should be curved or wavy if possible, as this makes them less noticeable, especially on uneven grain.

1)The substrate may also be damaged, then glue loose pieces back on and fill in the remaining holes.

2) Cut the cut straight with a knife and ruler to obtain a clean butt joint, guide the knife straight and tightly along the ruler that securely covers the undamaged surface, and if it slips off, the knife will only damage the piece to be removed, first pre-cut the cut line slightly and then cut it in one go.

3) Remove all loose pieces of veneer and apply white glue evenly onto the carrier plate with the syringe, thick enough to allow it to swell out later under the new piece of veneer.

4)Choose a suitable veneer for the patch, cut it so that the grain follows that on the plate, cut the piece slightly larger than necessary and sand the overhang later when the glue is dry, such patches should always be placed slightly oblique (at an angle of about 30 degrees) to the grain.

5)Use an iron to speed up the glue setting, place a piece of paper between the iron and the veneer to prevent burns, press the iron firmly for about a minute and then check if the glue is dry.

6)When the glue is dry, make the protruding veneer flush by removing the protrusion with a sharp knife and then file it flush with a rasp or file.

7)Place 100 grit sandpaper around a sanding block and sand the inserted patch, always completely flat and only in grain direction.

 

TIPS AND TRICKS:

Tape off very thin veneer before cutting out the new patch. mark the contours on the tape to insert the patch properly.

If you need to make many patches, special punching irons are very helpful.they are also used to punch out the damaged parts of the veneer, using new pieces of veneer punched out with the same iron.these punching irons have irregularly shaped edges to better conceal the shape of the patch.to cut out the patches cleanly, a single hammer blow on the punching iron should always be enoughto keep the cutting surfaces sharp.

Cuts across the wood fibre are always conspicuous.

Beginners often don't fit the patch exactly enough.

Too much heat can loosen veneer.

Prevent glue from getting onto the veneer surface.

Test in an inconspicuous place whether glue and veneer are compatible.

If the grain is fairly straight, it is best to cut out the patch with a knife.

Allow the white glue to set for at least 24 hours.

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