Deepenings in the surface of the wood are created either by pressing in wood fibres or by scratches caused by cracked wood fibres, which have to be removed before sanding. if there are deep dents or scratches, it is better to lift these areas than to try to grind them out.


Excess water can be removed with the iron, but keep a lot of dry rags ready.

Avoid direct contact of the iron with the workpiece, as the heavy, hot iron may cause scorching or dents on the surface.

Be careful in corners, edges and profiles, as these areas will be damaged or burned faster than flat surfaces.



. cotton cloth

. soldering iron

. iron

. fine sandpaper

. wet cloth


1) Impressions, dents and scratches in a valuable veneer can be almost invisible, but they still interfere with further treatment, but these defects can be remedied relatively easily and without special tools The principle is simple: to lift the pressure points, the squeezed wood fibres are swollen up with heat and steam.

2) Make sure that the old coating is actually completely removed, moisten the surface around the dent with a wet cloth, always make sure that water and cloth are clean, otherwise stains can appear on the wood, take a clean cloth that is as soft as possible and press it on the appropriate spot so that the water penetrates into the wood fibres and does not just run off.

3)Fold the still damp cloth and place it on the damaged area, do not use a too thin cloth as it may cause burn marks or other pressure points.

4) If you do not have a soldering iron, take the tip of your iron, make sure that it is very hot, press the iron on the damp cloth, the moisture must not evaporate before it is pressed into the wood, make sure that the iron only touches the damp cloth and that no other areas of the wood surface can sear. If it is not yet balanced, repeat the process with a freshly moistened cloth and allow the wood to dry well.

5) After dampening the area, sand the area with fine sandpaper smooth, always in the direction of the grain.

6) After sanding, wipe off the fine dust with a damp cloth, the repaired surface is now ready for final treatment with varnish, polish or something else and will be as good as the original.



Soft soft coniferous wood reacts faster than hardwood when steaming, check that the dent is really even, steaming up deep dents works better on solid wood than on veneers, and the glue layer can act as a vapour barrier on veneers, so that the fibres of the carrier wood do not swell so well.


The dents can quickly appear, sometimes in seconds, and allow the wood to dry well before further treatment.


If the wood fibres are torn, the area must be filled and sanded.

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